A night view of the Charles Bridge and the Prague Castle on the hill
Text by Zina Hemady
Photographs by Norbert Schiller
Prague, a city steeped in history, can be bewildering to visitors who stop for only two or three days while hopping from one European capital to another. Once divided into four distinct towns, the Czech capital evolved over centuries under the rule of kings, emperors, foreign dynasties, nationalist leaders, occupying armies, and hardline communists. The best way to trace this evolution and appreciate the city’s many layers is to wander through its streets and neighborhoods, visiting iconic landmarks while discovering hidden but equally fascinating attractions.
The most natural starting point is the Old Town (Staré Město), particularly its main square, which boasts a dizzying array of historical landmarks. Dating back to the 12th century, the Old Town developed as a commercial center, attracting traders from across Europe and beyond. Over time, it evolved into a political, religious, and educational hub. Its architecture, a mix of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo, and Art Nouveau styles, reflects the city’s historical development.
Prague’s Old Town Square, dating back to the 12th century, with its mix of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo and Art Nouveau architectural styles. A bronze sculpture of Jan Hus, the Czech theologian, philosopher, and church reformer who was burned at the stake for heresy (L). The Church of Our Lady before Týn, a Gothic masterpiece, displaying its twin spires.
Among the square’s main attractions are the Astronomical Clock, with its much-anticipated hourly procession of the apostles; the Church of Our Lady before Týn, with its imposing 80-meter Gothic twin spires; and the towering monument to Protestant reformer Jan Hus, who was executed for heresy after challenging corruption and abuses within the Catholic Church.
At the heart of Prague’s New Town lies Wenceslas Square, a former horse market transformed into a vast boulevard that became a focal point during the 1968 Prague Spring and the 1989 Velvet Revolution (L). The steel-and-glass former Czechoslovak parliament building, an example of Brutalist architecture, later housed Radio Free Europe (R).Phot. (R) Zina Hemady
Old passageways lined with souvenir shops and trinket stalls lead out of the Old Town, leaving behind its hyper-touristy atmosphere and opening into the more sober New Town (Nové Město). Designed as an extension of the historic center, New Town has a misleading name: it dates back to the 14th century, although much of its modernization took place in the 19th and 20th centuries. At its heart lies Wenceslas Square, a former horse market transformed into a vast boulevard flanked by imposing buildings. The square has been the epicenter of pivotal events in Czech history, including the 1968 Prague Spring, when attempts to liberalize communist rule were crushed by a Soviet-led invasion, and the 1989 Velvet Revolution, which brought an end to four decades of communist rule.
The Head of Franz Kafka, an outdoor kinetic sculpture by David Černý depicting the German-language Czech writer, outside a shopping mall (L). The Tesla stained-glass window in the Světozor Passage (C). David Černý’s giant sculpture of Saint Wenceslas riding an upside-down dead horse in the Lucerna Passage (R).
A network of passages and arcades connecting New Town’s Art Nouveau and modernist buildings offers a glimpse into everyday life in Prague, along with some of the city’s more peculiar landmarks. The Lucerna Passage is home to a sculpture by prominent Czech artist David Černý depicting St. Wenceslas, the Czech patron saint, riding on an upside-down horse. Nearby, the Světozor Passage, with its glass-vaulted ceiling and natural light, features an intricate stained-glass window advertising the Tesla electronics company. It is also home to a branch of the popular Ovocný Světozor confectionery chain, known for its Czech sweets and delicacies.
Other worthwhile sights in New Town include the massive, 39-ton rotating head of celebrated Prague-born writer Franz Kafka, another of Černý’s extraordinary creations. Closer to Wenceslas Square stand the historic equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas, the imposing National Museum, and the steel-and-glass building that once housed Radio Free Europe.
Prague’s Old Jewish Cemetery, used from 1439 to 1787, has 12,000 visible tombstones, with up to 12 layers underneath (L). The Spanish Synagogue, built in 1868, is the newest synagogue in Prague’s former Jewish Town (R).
Back in the Old Town, just north of its historic center, lies the Jewish Quarter (Josefov). No longer the bustling center of Jewish life it once was, the former ghetto is now home to several synagogues and a historic cemetery, reminders of the community’s centuries-long presence in Central Europe. The Maisel Synagogue, named after wealthy financier Mordecai Maisel, now houses a museum documenting early Jewish life in Bohemia and Moravia from the 10th to the 18th century. The Pinkas Synagogue serves as a memorial, its walls inscribed with the names of nearly 80,000 Jewish victims of the Holocaust from the Czech lands. Upstairs, an exhibition displays drawings and poems created by children imprisoned in the Terezín ghetto. While much of their artwork depicts the dark realities of life under Nazi persecution, drawings of Palestine radiate light and warmth, expressing a longing for salvation in what they imagined as the Promised Land. Viewed through the lens of subsequent history, these images are particularly poignant, foreshadowing the tragic dispossession of Palestinians that accompanied Israel’s establishment just a few years later.
The mizrach, or eastern wall, of the Pinkas Synagogue (L). The walls bear the names of nearly 80,000 Jewish Holocaust victims from the Czech lands (C). Upstairs, drawings and paintings by children imprisoned in the Terezín ghetto depict daily life and their imagined visions of Palestine (R).
Two other noteworthy synagogues are the Old-New Synagogue, Europe’s oldest active synagogue, and the Spanish Synagogue, an architectural symbol of Jewish emancipation. The latter houses artifacts and exhibits tracing modern Jewish history in the Czech lands from the 18th to the 20th century, including the rise of the Jewish Enlightenment, which advocated greater integration into European society, and the emergence of Zionism, which sought a Jewish homeland in Palestine.
The new organ in St. Vitus Cathedral, in front of a vast stained-glass window (L). An Art Nouveau stained-glass window, designed by Czech artist Alphonse Mucha, was installed in 1931 (C). The cathedral’s altar (R).
Another defining feature of Prague is its collection of castles, cathedrals, and monasteries perched on the hills across the Vltava River. The Castle Quarter (Hradčany) is dominated by Prague Castle, a vast complex that served as the seat of Bohemian rulers for centuries. Its most impressive landmark, by far, is St. Vitus Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece whose construction spanned nearly 600 years. Its monumental Gothic exterior is breathtaking, while the soaring interior, illuminated by magnificent stained-glass windows, is equally stunning. Next door stands the Old Royal Palace, which, despite its historical significance, feels somewhat bare and anticlimactic compared with the cathedral. Its vast Vladislav Hall, a remarkable pillar-free space, once hosted royal banquets, ceremonies, and tournaments, and continues to serve as the setting for important state occasions.
Prague Castle’s vast, pillar-free Vladislav Hall once hosted royal banquets, ceremonies and tournaments (L). The New Land Rolls Room in the Old Royal Palace is decorated with the coats of arms of Bohemian nobles and land office officials (C). Another majestic hall within the castle complex (R).
Nearby is the Bohemian Chancellery, where, in 1618, disgruntled Protestant nobles threw two Catholic governors and their secretary out of a window in the famous Defenestration of Prague. Remarkably, all three survived. The incident helped ignite the Thirty Years’ War, one of Europe’s most devastating conflicts. Another room worth visiting is the Land Rolls Room, whose vaulted ceiling is decorated with hand-painted coats of arms belonging to noble families and prominent officials of Bohemia.
Statues of Saints Wenceslas, Norbert and Sigismund, from left to right (L). Buying a can of St. Norbert Amber Lager at the St. Norbert Brewery (C). Norbert outside his namesake brewery at Strahov Monastery (R). Phot. (R) Zina Hemady
While in this part of the city, it is worth walking another 20 minutes southwest to visit Strahov Monastery. Founded in 1143, the monastery belongs to the Premonstratensian Order, established by St. Norbert in the 12th century. For Norbert, this visit became something of a personal pilgrimage as he finally encountered the patron saint he had heard so much about. The remains of St. Norbert are kept in the monastery’s Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, one of several attractions within the complex. Others include a magnificent historic library housing rare manuscripts, the richly decorated Theological and Philosophical Halls, and an art gallery with an impressive collection of Gothic and Baroque paintings. Perhaps more importantly, at least for beer enthusiasts, the monastery is also home to the Strahov Monastery Brewery (Pivovar Sv. Norbert), which serves some of Prague’s finest craft beers in an atmospheric beer hall or outdoor garden.
A view of Prague on the walk downhill from the castle complex (L). David Černý’s giant Crawling Babies sculptures in Kampa Park (R).
The walk back down toward the Old Town offers exceptional panoramic views of Prague before plunging visitors once again into tourist wonderland in Lesser Town (Malá Strana). This picturesque neighborhood leads to the historic Charles Bridge, commissioned by Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, which connects the two sides of the city. A worthwhile detour is Kampa Park, where visitors can admire David Černý’s giant Crawling Babies sculptures and enjoy beautiful views of the bridge and Prague’s skyline in the late-afternoon light.
Tourists from around the globe crossing Charles Bridge (L). A view of Prague Castle on the hill from Charles Bridge (R).
For those seeking something beyond churches, castles, and historic landmarks, Prague offers a few unusual experiences. For a glimpse into life during the communist era, the Cold War Museum offers guided tours of a former nuclear fallout shelter beneath a hotel on Wenceslas Square. Built for the political and military elite of the communist regime, the underground complex includes a network of tunnels, a small hospital, and rooms displaying various aspects of life behind the Iron Curtain. Among the exhibits are a communications room associated with surveillance and espionage, displays illustrating the dangers faced by those attempting to escape across heavily guarded borders, and an interrogation room recreating the methods used against suspected dissidents. A collection of equipment, documents, and everyday objects helps bring this unsettling chapter of Czech history to life.
A guide, dressed in period clothing, shows visitors an operating theatre at the Cold War Museum, housed in a former nuclear fallout shelter beneath a hotel on Wenceslas Square (L). The hammer, sickle and star of the Soviet flag (C). A tunnel leading to another part of the shelter (R).
At night, Prague’s Old Town takes on a mysterious, almost mystical atmosphere, as shadows and echoes of its past seem to drift through its narrow alleys and passageways. Dressed in Gothic-inspired costumes and carrying lanterns, guides lead visitors through the historic quarters, recounting legends passed down through generations.
One such tale concerns a thief who attempted to steal jewels from a statue of the Virgin Mary in the Basilica of St. James the Greater. According to legend, the statue seized the thief’s hand and refused to release it, leaving authorities with no choice but to sever his arm. To this day, a shriveled, blackened arm hangs from a chain inside the church, a macabre warning to anyone contemplating theft from a holy place.
A night scene near the Powder Tower on the edge of Prague’s Old Town (L). A thief’s blackened arm hangs from a chain inside the Basilica of St. James the Greater (C). The basilica’s interior (R).
In Prague, history is not confined to museums and monuments. It lingers in the architecture, the public squares, the hidden passageways, and the stories that have survived centuries of political and social upheaval. For visitors willing to venture beyond the main tourist attractions, the city reveals itself as a fascinating mosaic of past and present, culture, and contradictions.
